October 2, 2019DrainageFrench DrainsKeeping SafeSafetySump Pump
As we enter the Fall season in NJ, storms and heavy rains have become the norm. For those homes with French Drains installed, functioning sump pump(s) can mean the difference between a warm, dry and cozy basement, and a potential flood-destroying carpets, and ruined electronics left on the floor of a finished basement.
September 12, 2019DrainageHow ToToilet Clog
Is there anything worse than a clogged toilet? If you have a toilet that frequently gets clogged, Muccia Plumbing can help you resolve any plumbing, heating, drainage, cooling or ventilation.
June 11, 2019Hot Water HeaterHow ToTankless Water Heater
We often bring up water heater replacement in our online and Facebook posts. Some readers might assume it’s not just sound advice. Today we’re going to go a little deeper on why hot water heaters need to be replaced.
Like any other home appliance, it can be a surprising hit to your budget. Just like your refrigerator, microwave or even your car, replacing the water heater will result in one less headache you can count on for several years. Consider that neglecting to replace your water heater before it fails ends up costing far more in repairs and operational costs. So here’s some additional points why it’s important to recognize the signs that your ready to need a replacement:
Your current water heater no longer meets your needs.
Whether you have a tank or tankless water heater, every water heater is meant to be installed according to power and capacity. Simply put, if your family has grown by adding children or parents, you may need one of the bigger storage tank heaters 50-75 gallons. Alternatively, empty nesters likely will only need a 40 gallon or perhaps a tankless water heater. Muccia Plumbing techs will guide you on the best choice based on a discussion rather than merely a one for one replacement.
Muccia guidance combined with family changes you provide, ensures the right size, type and capacity to install. We’ll recommend the right size water heater to keep your heating bill low while maintaining both comfort and convenience.
Loss of Efficiency
In the context of water heating, the word “efficiency” means how much you must spend on average. Efficiency and utility bills are one of the first indicators that your water heater needs replacing. If you do not see your water heater usage suddenly doubled or tripled, there should be no reason for your water heater costs to rise.
More frequent calls for repairs
Have you found yourself calling in for water heater services in #BergenCounty more than once in the same year? That is a huge clue a complete failure is close. Water heaters more than any other home appliance should never require more than one repair. If you have needed to call a plumber twice, or just once every year, it is clearly a sign that your water heater needs replacing.
Here’s the “but”. If your water heater is 8 years old or less and giving you these signs of problem, call Muccia Plumbing. One of the frequently early failures is the purchase of a new water heater from a home improvement center. If it’s a plumbing-supply-only brand like Bradford White, it may be eligible for replacement under the manufacturer’s warranty. Of course, using a general “handyman” instead of a NJ licensed master plumber such as Muccia Plumbing, may be proving unqualified repairs to generate revenue or simply incompetence.
Age is still the #1 reason to replace a water heater.
As we have stated many times, age is usually the most frequent reason for water heater replacement. A quality brand water heater, still under 7-8 years old, can be solved with a maintenance check or a repair. Leaking water, high fuel costs and poor efficiency on a 10 year or older unit requires replacement. Imagine having guests on a holiday stay-over and suddenly there is no hot water. The table to the left is Bradford White’s guide to determining the manufactured date one of their hot water tanks. It’s tough to read here so please visit https://www.bradfordwhite.com/find-your-model-and-serial-number#
However, regardless of the brand, its usually easier to read your town’s inspection and approval sticker.
If you look at the date row, the bottom is dated 08/22/16 and signed by the inspector.
Bottom Line: How long should a tank or tankless last?
The life expectancy of water heaters varies between each type.
Tank water heaters: 8 to 12 years.
Tankless water heaters: Over 20 years.
While there is no hard rule, where your water heater lands on the scale depends on 1) the quality and brand of the water heater 2) installation and right-sizing by a master plumber 3) proper maintenance such as draining the tank to remove scale or sediment.
Muccia Plumbing features Made in the USA Water Heaters, both tank and tankless, from Bradford White. Our techs are trained by the manufacturers of all products we service to ensure proper installation and use.
The choice is simple. Now that we’ve given you a detailed lesson on water heaters, there’s only one thing left to say “I call Muccia” and schedule an appointment 201-778-0885
May 19, 2019Hot Water HeaterHVACTankless Water Heater
The venerable hot water tank has finally met it’s match. For the last ten years, debates continued about the efficiencies and longevity of tank vs tankless water heaters. However, the match is over. Recent updates in materials and processes for on-demand hot water from a tank unit can stand up side by side with a new tankless.
First, the obvious, there is no need to run precious water up two stories until it’s warm enough to take a shower. In fact, there is a tiny learning curve that avoids pushing the handle to the furthest heat position. Do that and step in to the shower and you may get scalded!
Next, the life span of the tankless system is now easily 20 years besting the typical tank system by double the lifespan.
Efficiency: While these systems are more expensive, they are also more efficient. In fact, Consumer Reports indicates that tankless water heaters are 22% more efficient than standard models. The monthly savings might be nominal, but homeowners can expect to save hundreds of dollars annually.
Space savings: Whether you’ve been using a 40 gallon, 50 gallon or 75 gallon tank, the space needed for a tankless water heater is a fraction of what those tanks take as tankless are bolted onto a wall using no floor space whatsoever.
Tax breaks remain: Because they are more efficient, tankless heaters qualify for federal tax credits, which help offset the steep installation cost, usually 10%. In sum, if your existing 8+ year tank is headed to obsolescence, consider a Bradford White tankless system.
The program will run from Monday May 20, 2019 and conclude June 30, 2019. There is no fixed discount until the initial inspection is done, and “stacking” i.e. using TV ad discounts or downloaded $25 discounts cannot be used with this program. However, we expect the discount to be pleasing to our customers.
April 6, 2019Uncategorized
Mike’s Tips: Spring is here in #BergenCounty. Please, before you start your A/C compressor, it’s very important to remove any #cover you have for it. Also if there is green overgrowth or debris, you don’t want it bending the fan blades.
The cover photo is an example of what NOT to have around your compressor. #Ridgewood #Ramsey #Oradell are just 3 towns that called us this weekend with a cover or branches or overgrown ivy that was sucked into their compressor.
October 11, 2018DrainageHeatHot Water HeaterKeeping SafeWashing Machine Hoses
In a recent edition of Mike’s Kwik-Tip on Facebook, we recommended that you remove the timers off any hose bibs since a quick unexpected freeze will destroy the internal plastic parts. (In English please!) There is a fitting where a hose can be attached to a home water supply (usually more than one) so watering the lawn and garden is simplified. The part that the hose screws onto is called a hose bib. We received many “thank you”s for that tip, but now that we are in October, it’s time to go one better and it’s a 2 step process.
First, stretch out the hose(s) and remove any water just by rolling them up. This is extra easy if you have a hose reel.
Next, it’s not enough to simply shut the valve off where it’s sticking out of the basement and through the wall outside. You’ll need to go into your basement or crawl space and shut the pipe off at the valve inside the house. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a pipe which is split in the middle. (see an example on left)
Draining the hot water heater. Yes, we realize this is a terrible waste of both energy and water, BUT draining and rinsing the sediment that ends up on the bottom of the tank will extend the tank’s life and now’s the time to do it. NOTE: This may not be for every do-it-yourself homeowner since it requires turning off the natural gas and the water supply, then running a hose from the 
bottom of the tank until it’s empty, refill it again, draining it one more time, and one final refill. Then turn on the gas line and lighting the pilot light. If you have any misgivings about doing this, either skip this step or call Muccia Plumbing. While this will improve the tank’s operation and lifespan, we don’t want you to accidentally shorten your own. If your tank was installed in the last 2-3 years, you’ll be fine. If you’re not sure, look for the town inspection sticker. Their dates are usually easier to read than the manufacturers. If your tank is near end of life, be aware that Muccia only sells and installs Bradford White Made in the USA hot water heater tanks. For example, Bradford White fittings are all brass, not plastic and are guaranteed to provide you with years of excellent service.
Replace your rubber washing machine hoses. If your washer was installed by the company that sold it to you, they most likely used the rubber hoses that came with the machine. These hoses are holding back the full pressure of both hot and cold water until the washer timer calls for them to release their water supplies. They are OK for a year or two but living in NJ, we are subject to brutal hot days and frigid cold days, and those fluctuations in ambient temperature cause the hoses to fail. The standard for several years was braided stainless steel. Those held up better, but over time the stainless steel wrapping would also fail. We recommend the Danco 
Flood Anchor washing machine hoses. What’s great about these hoses is they have a ball bearing built into the connector at the water supply. No matter what happens to the hose, the ball bearing will prevent a flood by stopping the water from escaping the fitting. These are not cheap, and if you’re handy and can remove and replace the hoses, they are worth the price. You can sometimes find them at Sears or True Value. They come in a 6-foot length, so before you start taking things apart, make sure 6 feet will work for you or look for another brand. You can purchase them anywhere you wish. The Amazon ad example is simply that – an example.
Now it’s time for you to do a simple inspection. In one of our first blogs, we discussed what leaks or just water on the floor around your furnace or boiler may mean. There are three parts that can fail about 6-10 years into the life of a new boiler.
The first part is the boiler pressure relief valve. Here’s the exact explanation from the NJ Master Plumbing manual: A safety valve is a valve that acts as a fail-safe. An example of the safety valve is a pressure relief valve (PRV), which automatically releases a substance from a boiler, pressure vessel, or another system when the pressure or temperature exceeds preset limits. 
This is what it looks like:
The second part is the water pressure relief valve: Again, from the Master Plumber manual: Back Pressure Valves. Back pressure valves are pressure relief valves used in pipes and pumps. They are essential in the plumbing industry. Their function is to maintain a set pressure, particularly at the pump’s outlet port or discharge, and doing so ensures correct metering. This is what it looks like:
The third and final part is an air expansion tank. Once again, directly from the plumbers manual: An expansion tank is a metal ta
nk connected to a building’s water heating appliance designed to accommodate fluctuations in the volume of a building’s hot water supply system. These fluctuations occur because water expands in volume as it gets hot and loses volume as it cools.
NOTE: This should not be confused with the hot water tank. This is meant as a fit for a home that is running on a hot water system. The boiler heats the water, it is then pumped throughout the home raising the temperatures of the radiators. It is one of the more efficient means to heat a home since, after the hot water returns, the pipes retain their heat
The simplest way to test for a water leak is to put some paper towel on the floor and let it sit undisturbed overnight. If in the moning the paper is wet or simply feels of an unusual texture, please Muccia Plumbing at 201-778-7085
September 21, 2018HeatHome InspectionHot Water HeaterKeeping Safestartup
Your heating system is a complex machine. It includes a variety of devices that check for fuel pressure, water level, water pressure, valves, zones, pumps and more. These devices and indicators are specific to your system, and are meant to take care of each part of your home or business with a unique “zone”. Simply put, a zone is an area of your home or business that is getting heat (or not) based on the thermostat that is relaying information back to the main system. Whether time-based (start the heat at 6 AM) and/or temperature based (Don’t let it drop below 65 degrees), each zone is an independent place and based on use, will require more or less heat than another room.
For example, let’s say you have a large family room say 30 x 30 feet square. This may be the place where on a holiday morning kids, adults and family gather to open gifts. Once that fun is over, everyone goes back to another room – kids go out or to their bedrooms, parents set about doing laundry, cooking, or any other planned activity. To maintain that 30 X 30 heat at a comfortable 72 with no occupants is simply a waste of money. Today’s efficient boilers and hot water systems produce heat rapidly so that if it’s needed, it takes a very short time to regain that heat level from the earlier time of day.
Likewise, there are two other times where lowering the heat can save money. One, of course, is when everyone is sleeping. While we don’t want to freeze everyone under the covers of their bed, it is much more comfortable to sleep in the 60s than in the high 70s or low 80s. The bedcovers are designed to hold in body heat and what feels comfortable above the covers, is likely unbearable when you have 2 inches of down covers on top of you.
The second should be equally obvious. If everyone in the family is off to school or work, there is no good reason to pump high 70s low 80s into an entire house. Remember the heating system’s primary job is to keep people warm. And if you have pets, worry not. Unless the temps drop way down into the 40s or 50s, the natural fur on cats and dogs insulates them from that small differential in room temperature.
Now that we’ve explained why the basics of a heating system, let’s talk about what’s involved in having Muccia Plumbing do a startup inspection. As mentioned earlier, the heating system is a complex system with multiple indicators built into the system to permit a trained plumber to determine efficiency and manufacturers recommended positions. Let’s begin with water pressure. There is a delicate balance between too much and too little water entering and exiting the system on demand. An early indicator of a failure is a water drip behind the system. Along with all the technology, there are built-in relief valves to avoid excess water from being distributed on your floor or too little which can cause a complete failure.
In point of fact, the first part of the startup inspection is a detailed visual look around for anything out of the ordinary. Since this is likely the first time since May that the system has been turned on, the plumbing/heating tech will look for drips around the system to find any parts which may have exceeded their usefulness. Often these include the water pressure gauge, the water inlet pump, and the thermal expansion tank. These three parts are interrelated, and it’s often best to replace all three rather than guess which one is prepared to fail.
The tech will next begin a series of tests between zones and their equivalent thermostat. This is to ensure that the heat which is called for is acting on a request from the correct thermostat. Since each hot water pump is controlled electronically by the appropriate thermostat, it is imperative that the two are working in tandem.
Finally, if so appropriate, the tech will replace all filters (typically on hot air systems) that were replaced last year. Clogged filters, whether for Air Conditioning or Heater systems are the #1 loss of energy and comfort. After replacing the filters, the last step is ensuring that the performance of the system is at its peak. Techs are uniquely trained to listen for water flows, responses to thermostats and a host of other sounds to instill confidence that the startup has put the system in readiness for winter. And in case you were wondering, it is not necessary to request and schedule a startup inspection in the winter. Anytime between the end of September and the end of October is usually perfect, though if you want to get your system scheduled when you want, the earlier the better.
Thank you for taking the time to read this latest in Mike’s Tips. Our goals at Muccia Plumbing, Heating and AC have not changed in our 40 years of doing business in Bergen County. We will never sell you parts you don’t need, and you’ll know exactly what fees will be involved. No surprises. Just delighted customers. You can reach Muccia Plumbing at 201-343-1414 or visit our website at www.mucciaplumbing.com
June 22, 2018Home InspectionHVACPlumbing 101Water Leaks
But while generally assumed to be an adequate replacement for copper, during a home inspection it is imperative to know whether or not it is acceptable as a water supply piping material
This creates a potential defect during the home inspection prior to a purchase. First, the very use of PEX may not be approved as acceptable to code. Will PEX alone be considered a code violation? Most likely not, as defects and code violations are not exactly the same. Depending on the town and the code on their books, it seems unlikely that a builder would knowingly create an obstacle to purchasing a home or multi-family dwelling.
That said, let’s look at the basics of PEX, what you need to know as a purchaser, what questions you should ask a home inspector and why it remains somewhat controversial even as the use of it continues to grow across the United States.
What is PEX Water Supply Piping?
Introduced into the US in the 1980’s, PEX Water Supply Piping is made from a cross-linked, high-density polyethylene (HDPE) polymer. The process of manufacturing PEX consists of melting the polymer as a means of manufacturing the tubes.
Strength, flexibility, and durability to the polymer are added by crosslinking. There are different manufacturers who may use the Engels method, the Silane method or the radiation method to create the necessary chemical reaction that triggers crosslinking. Crosslinking helps PEX resist cracking, impact damage and extremely cold temperatures.
The PEX tube manufactured to CTS-OD sizes is the most common, with available sizes including 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and 1″. On the pexinfo.com website, “PEX tube” refers to this common CTS-OD product (copper tubing size, outside diameter, controlled) sizes, commonly with a standard thickness of SDR-9 (standard dimension ratio). PEX pipe may be manufactured to IPS-ID (iron pipe size, inside diameter, controlled) sizes with varying thickness to meet pressure requirements
What are the Primary Advantages of PEX?
According to the industry website www.pexinfo.com, the biggest advantage of PEX is its flexibility. Instead of cutting lengths of copper, galvanized or PVC and creating bends and turns with fittings and connectors, PEX wraps around corners and other unusual shapes in one piece. Fewer fittings mean fewer spots where leaks might occur, and there is less need for glue or solder.
PEXInfo.com also lists these pluses:
What are the Disadvantages?
Although PEX is a seemingly ideal solution for anything from piping the whole interior of the home to running heated water through a radiant home heating system, it’s not perfect. Perhaps the most prominent disadvantage is its lack of resistance to UV damage. That’s one reason why, even in areas where it’s up to code, it’s still not used outside the home.
Buildipedia also says the color-coded tubes might not look as attractive as copper, which doesn’t matter in concealed spaces but might in an exposed basement installation. If the tubing is ever exposed to temperatures above 180 F at 100 psi, the tubing is prone to failure.
Is PEX an Automatic Home Defect?
Many areas of the United States have embraced PEX for its numerous benefits, but some locations are still skeptical. For that reason, the flexible tubing might be a code violation in your area. That said, a code violation doesn’t always equal a defect.
Home defects are issues that impair the usability of the home, put the homeowners at a health or safety risk, put the structure at risk or all three. Unless PEX is damaged or improperly installed, it’s not a defect in the strictest definition.
What is it about this flexible, convenient tubing that makes some locations throw up a caution flag or forbid it altogether? Inexperience with installation and a fear of the unknown are probably two major factors. But as more locations embrace PEX, expect to see it emerge as another common piping solution, not just a new gadget.
PEX has a hidden weakness which has become the subject of numerous home inspection failures. And it has nothing to do with the pipes or tubes themselves. It has everything to do with the choice of fittings and the skill of the installer/plumber to do what could be hundred of crimps, done by hand, sometimes in tight spaces. The repetitive nature of crimping without specific torque specifications that many fittings should require is essentially defined by the instruction and mentoring of plumbing apprentices. A standard of “Good and Tight” may result in the development of a “weeping loss” something less than a visible drip that allows water to escape. A full pressure test of an entire system is generally too expensive and considered unnecessary by new home builders. However, there are several fitting methods which can be used.
The standard method for connecting PEX pipe to brass PEX fittings uses a copper crimp ring and a PEX crimping tool. The copper crimp ring is inserted over the pipe, the fitting is inserted inside the pipe, and the copper ring is crimped over the pipe and fitting using the PEX crimping tool.
The expansion method involves using an expansion tool to increase the diameter of the PEX tube. Special expansion fittings are inserted into the expanded tube, which shrinks back to shape around the fitting. A plastic ring is then pressed over the fitting to insure a tight connection.
The SSC (stainless steel clamp) method uses special clamps designed for PEX connection. The fittings used here are the same used in the “Standard Connection Method” above, but in this method, the SSC fastens the PEX tube to the fitting. A special “SSC crimping tool” is used to tighten the clamp around the tube.
Standard compression fittings can be used to make connections between PEX tubing. For moderate to large size jobs, this method is more expensive than using the Standard Connection Method since compression fittings cost more than PEX fittings.
Several companies offer specialized fittings that will connect PEX to PEX or to copper, PVC, and other materials as well. These fittings use one or more of several technologies such as EDPM O-ring seals, stainless steel gripping teeth, and threaded compression nuts. These fittings are faster and easier than most competing methods, but cost more per fitting than standard PEX fittings.
Summary: While there is truly no good reason to avoid considering a home using PEX for water supply, it becomes a strong reason to hire a qualified home inspector. The inspector will check for any loose fittings, damp or “weeping” fittings, and where PEX pipes are connected to copper or other types of water supply piping material – PVC, Galvanized Steel, and brass. If any issues are found after the inspection, they can be addressed before the closing. PEX is a wonderful product, but as long as humans are responsible for their connections and installation, it remains a fact that problems can occur. Minimize these problems with a home inspection.
May 12, 2018Air ConditioningHVACKeeping Safestartup
For Muccia Plumbing, it’s that time of the year. Or should I say that OTHER time of the year? Living and working in the NorthEast, we truly pay attention to two seasons – winter, when we need to make sure our heating system is working as designed. And summer, when brutally hot and humid days and nights can make living in New Jersey and the tri-state area clearly painful.
This edition of Mike’s Tips, we focus on what we, as trained air conditioning techs, do to ensure that your air conditioning and ventilation system is keeping you comfortable without surprises. Let’s focus on the starting point which is the assumption that you have a central air conditioning system, a compressor outside your premises, and the airbox which takes the cooled air and distributes it throughout your home. Here’s where annual maintenance will help you avoid surprises when the outside temp is 95 and the inside temp is a comfortable 72.
However, beyond relying on your air conditioning system working when you need it, there are other things we do which reduce the costs of the energy used to run your air conditioning system. We also know which parts can be serviced to extend their life and the life of the entire system.
The coils are the central part of the system and when not, clean they reduce the ability and efficiency of the unit to cool your home. What do coils do? Coils are used for evaporation and condensation purposes. When Team Muccia is done cleaning coils, it permits the conductive properties to do their job. Or to think of it another way, dirty coils force the system to work harder to circulate and handle evaporation and condensation. Working harder equals higher energy costs and generally reduces the life of the system.>
Refrigerant:Our next step is to check the refrigerant level. While there is an owners view of the refrigerator level, Team Muccia brings tools that inspect the refrigerant level. Since it’s a sealed system, if there is a significant loss of refrigerant, it tells us there is a leak somewhere. If such a leak is discovered, our techs will initiate the repair and refill the refrigerant level to it exact point on the gauge per manufacturers instructions.
Often we find that homeowners, in an effort to get a quick fix and avoid a service call, will add refrigerant. Very often this creates a new problem as too much refrigerant is equally as bad as too little. It actually can eat away at the system components and significantly shorten the system lifespan.
Air Filters:As the name suggests, these filters allow warm air from inside the home to literally be sucked into the airbox where it gets cooled and redistributed.
Changing an air filter is often not a difficult job, and can be done by most homeowners as long as they are physically able to balance themselves on a stool or ladder to open the filter cover.
The only other step is to ensure that the airflow is going in the right direction. On the sides of the filter will be an arrow indicating which way the filter should be placed. If the filter is going into a trap it should fit snugly and the air flow should go in the direction of the AC unit. If you have a question, make a note of the direction the arrow is pointing when you begin to pull it out. If you are still unsure, call Muccia Plumbing to help guide you. BUT remember safety first. It’s not worth a few dollars to have a trained tech do the filter exchange and not fall off a stool or ladder. Filters should be changed once a month. Depending on the size of your home, you may have several filters to change.
Conclusion. Just like a dirty oil or engine air filter can cause an automobile to run poorly and consume excessive gasoline, a dirty air conditioner filter can drive up costs, and premature failure.
Just like a clean air filter is important to providing warm air in to let cool air out of the air conditioning system, the Muccia Inspection includes inspecting the system’s airflow parts.
When you pull out the filter, dust, pollen, dirt, and debris can pass thru and clog the flow of air. Muccia Plumbing trained techs will do an end to end inspection of the airflow vents. It’s often amazing how much dirt and dust can get past the filter, especially one that hasn’t been changed in quite some time, or exceptionally low-cost filters that don’t do the job properly.
Thermostat(s):One of the simplest items to service yourself is replacing the batteries in your thermostats. We have all heard the expression to change smoke detectors twice a year – when you move the clock back an hour and when you move the clock forward an hour BUT do you do the same with the batteries in your thermostats. You may have separate ones for different “zones” or heat and cool on separate thermostats. Here’s an easy one, since thermostats don’t require getting on a ladder. They are usually 2 AA batteries, and as long as you have them go back in the way they came out, there won’t be a problem.
Let’s face it. Regardless if these heat waves are man-made or natural, summer in NJ has gotten progressively hotter, and the humidity on top of it makes us feel like we are living in the desert. If you have medical issues such as Asthma or COPD or you require medically ordered oxygen, being uncomfortable in your own home is risky, and frankly unnecessary. Muccia Plumbing, serving Bergen County for more than 40 years, is your trusted advisor on what you need to avoid breakdowns and enjoy the summer. Our service book for AC tune-ups fills up quickly this time of year, so we encourage you to get your appointment scheduled ASAP. We want you to have a happy, comfortable and worry-free summer.
Call us TODAY at 201-343-1414 or visit our website at www.mucciaplumbing.com
PS. If you visit our website www.mucciaplumbing.com/coupon there is a $25 off coupon which good for the AC tune-up. Place your trust in us and we will not disappoint you.
April 10, 2018Air ConditioingHVACstartup
Every year we get the same calls from people who turned on the heating system, and nothing was hot. Only in May, it’s “I turned my air conditioning, and it’s not blowing or it’s blowing hot air or it’s very low on pressure”.
Getting a pro to start up your air conditioning and heating system at the beginning of every heating and cooling season avoids problems. This past winter has been especially tough on outdoor equipment. These ultra-low negative temperature spikes, along with the extended times below freezing, can affect your home air conditioning system’s Spring startup. But with a few checks and a little effort, you can help to ensure a trouble-free summer cooling season. Call a pro at Muccia Plumbing at 201-343-1414
Spring HVAC Startup Checklist: Here are eight important things Muccia Plumbing techs check BEFORE switching the wall thermostat to cool.
First, we start with the outdoor unit:
1. We inspect the outdoor unit panels: These panels are designed to enclose the electrical connections and must be in place to help protect both you and the system. If you are missing a panel (possibly due to wind) or if the panel is misaligned, this could cause potential risks for both you and the operation of the equipment. If the panel covering the electrical connections is missing or out of place you can rely on Muccia to take care of it BEFORE before starting your system.
2. Our qualified techs remove any condenser covers, coil blankets or lids: If we find the outdoor coil covered in order to protect it during the winter months, we’ll remove the cover before starting the system. These covers protect and insulate the coil, but also limit any heat transfer. Starting the system with any of these covers in place, even for a short time, could severely damage your system. Many people forget to remove their covers every year, often resulting in major repairs or even replacement of the whole system.
3. We will inspect, repair or replace any damaged pipe insulation. The suction line (the larger copper pipe on the outdoor unit) helps to supply cool refrigerant back to the compressor in the outdoor unit. If the system’s suction pipe has damaged insulation, this could cause a loss of required cooling for the outdoor unit which could damage your system and may also cause you to lose energy as well. Damage to the foam insulation can be caused by sun rot, freezing water trapped in the foam or winter animals looking for shelter or food. The insulation should be intact to maintain system cooling. If the insulation needs replacing, we do so before starting the unit. We ensure that the insulation is the correct size for the pipe size (5/8, 3/4, 7/8, etc.). As with all our parts, we purchase ours from plumbing supply houses that exceed the quality of the kind you’d find in a home improvement center or a local hardware store :
4. Depending on where you live or what side of the house your system is located on, we will look for any debris that may have landed against the coil. The system coils are designed to transfer heat, and any debris limits this effect. To get the best possible performance from your system, our technicians will remove this debris from the coil and surrounding area. Also, while mulching in the spring, take care to not pack mulch around the base of the unit.
Next, we’ll move to inspect the indoor unit:
5. Change the air filters: Now we’ll replace your indoor air filters. This winter has probably caused your furnace to run a lot more than previous winters. It’s likely that your indoor air filter will have gathered a lot more debris and dust than normal, so we’ll automatically change the interior filter, sure the airflow is going in the correct direction.
6. We next check the coil drainage hose: This hose (usually plastic) can also be called the “condensate line”. Since the coil’s temperature is lower than the ambient air, water will condense on the coil and drip into the tray below. This condensate needs to flow to a drain or the tray will fill up and flood the unit or potentially spill water into your basement. With the amount of time spent indoors this past winter due to the Nor’Easters affecting most of Bergen County, it’s possible the line may have moved. We check to make sure the line is in the proper place, attached, and will drain to the appropriate location.
7. Clean the supply vents and return grills: We’ll make sure that both the supply and return air grills and vents are open and free of debris. Some houses have separate winter and summer supply grills, or house zoning and some even have separate systems – one for heating and one for cooling. If you have a system like this you might have put extra plastic material over the AC vents to prevent drafts during the cold winter months. If so, it is important to remove these before you turn on the AC or you will not have proper air flow back through the system and this could cause severe damage. In general, cleaning all grills at the beginning of every season is a part of our complete startup.
8. Turn it on and make sure it works: Wait for a nice, hot day when you have some time to check the air coming out of the indoor vents for the first few minutes after starting it, and then every few hours throughout the day. After the first few minutes, you should feel cool air coming out of the registers. If no air is coming out, or if the air coming out does not feel cool, then something is wrong and you should immediately turn the system off at the thermostat. Contact Muccia Plumbing immediately. we’ll do an in-depth inspection and diagnose the problem which likely didn’t present itself during out startup inspection. Remember to turn it off. Leaving the system turned on when it’s not running properly can do a lot of expensive damage.
In summary, a brief inspection of your system now could help keep your system running worry free through the heat of the summer and fall and is especially important for older systems. While performing this general inspection, take note of the overall system health in order to assess the likelihood of a problem. Whether your system is old or new, it can endure a particularly harsh season. A qualified technician from Muccia Plumbing is trained to do a more thorough spring technical inspection to avoid a system failure in the hottest months of the year. Summer is just around the corner and no one knows your house better than you. If air conditioning is a necessity due to your lifestyle or geographical location, then be sure to get a professional’s opinion before time runs out.
Our Final Checklist:
Outdoor Inspection:
1. Inspect outdoor unit panels – make sure they are all in place
2. Remove any unit covers or coil blankets from the outdoor unit
3. Repair or replace damaged or missing pipe insulation
4. Remove any leaves or debris from the outdoor unit coils
Indoor Inspection:
5. Change the indoor air filters
6. Check the indoor drainage hose
7. Clean the supply vents and air return grills
8. Make sure your system is working properly on startup and throughout the first day (and turn it off immediately if it is not working!)
Please don’t wait for July or even June. Now is the time to run our complete tests and replace and parts that need replacing. Get it scheduled by calling Muccia Plumbing at 201-343-1414
October 2, 2019
September 12, 2019
June 11, 2019
